Province

It's still a battle trying to get through the streets of Chinatown, even on a gloomy, wet day. But I finally fought my way down to Province Chinese Canteen at Church and Walker St. the other day. How I did so this week I'm still confused about because it has felt like a long one with things scheduled almost back-to-back. I really wanted to check the place out because they specialize in "mantou" sandwiches...the steamed white bun bread normally served with Peking Duck, hoisin sauce and scallions. I think the most well-known one to New Yorkers is the Berkshire Pork Buns at Momofuku Noodle Bar (at right), which I might add are amazing and a happy meal in of itself. It will have to be another day when I gush about how delicious the sauce and fat combine with the juicy pork.

At Province, they make a variety of versions with a larger bun studded with toasted sesame seeds. These almost look like hamburger buns, but are pure white and more the size of an English muffin with extra puff. Listed under "sandwiches," the meat options are Grilled chicken, Braised pork shoulder, Spicy pork, or Short Rib & kimchi (at left). I was surprised by how fast I was able to place my order for the Braised pork and Short rib & kimchi sandwich. It wasn't my usual 10 minutes of indecisiveness though I was tempted to order them all to try.

I took a seat in the rather empty place. And when they say "canteen," they surely mean it...it's a no-frills place with wooden benches and wooden dividers with holes scattered in the boards. It isn't an ugly joint but slightly bare and cold. The only warmth that can be found is probably from the white xmas lights dangling from the ceiling or being able to look out into the street and people-watch through the huge glass windows.

Anyhow, my sandwiches came on a blue food tray with a wax-paper bag of what seemed like freshly made shrimp chips-the kind you sometimes can see crowning a plate of Peking Duck and mantou. I tried the Short rib & kimchi one first and had to think for a while whether or not I liked it. It was not that it was bad, but I think that sort of slightly fatty and sinewy meat is too difficult to eat as a sandwich. It felt like I needed a toothpick after each bite or I had to bite down hard and yank the sandwich away from my mouth so as not to pull out the entire sandwich filling. I'd individually everything was tasty. I like the meat because it was well...your basic marinated Korean short ribs and the kimchi wasn't too sour or funky. For some reason, I couldn't really taste much of the mantou...it was just sort of a tasteless bread, but the toasted sesame seeds gave the whole sandwich a nice touch texture-wise. Next, I tried the Braised Pork version and it was better because most of the pork was tender and slightly fatty. The flavor somewhat reminded me of the addicting pig trotters my mom makes: the fatty meat slow-cooked in a slightly sweet soy sauce with chunks of soft, Chinese white turnip. But it wasn't addicting here. There didn't seem to be much personality in the taste...not even the comfort I usually feel when I have my mom's dish. I guess in general there's nothing to be ecstatic over, but I'd say that it's a decent place to hit up if you're in the mood for the mantou sandwiches.

Overall? I probably won't trek all the way down to Church St. again for the sandwiches. The shrimp chips were fun but I'm not a fan of them in general. I may go down for their cold noodle salad though.

Lesson of the day: There's always time for food.

Province Chinese Canteen
305 Church Street (at Walker St.)